Lancaster Gate, Bayswater, London, W2
The kitchen has been redefined as a collection of bespoke cabinets framed by smoky grey marble, separated from the central living area by elegant Crittal windows.
Think of your lighting in layers “At a minimum, you’ll want both general ceiling lighting and local task lighting,” Eva explains. “Recessed downlighters are the most popular form of ceiling lighting nowadays, but they’re not my preferred option for all rooms,” she says. “Track lighting is a great alternative, with a huge variety of spotlights available according to your taste and style. Ceiling lights should always be on a dimmer switch, allowing you to change the mood in the room with a turn of the wrist.” Task lighting is just as important. This provides a comfortable light source for things such as reading, cooking or sewing. “5 amp sockets are invaluable for this,” Eva says, “as they [can be wired to] allow your floor and table lamps to be switched on together from a single switch at the door.” Think about where you’ll place furniture as well as how you’ll use the room when planning your lighting and sockets layout. And don’t forget to allow for the shadows that lights can create. “Recessed downlighters are major culprits,” Eva says, “and shadows can cause particular problems in bathrooms and kitchens. Overhead fittings in bathrooms can cast shadows on your face.” She advises overcoming this by using a horizontal fitting or placing wall lights on either side of the bathroom mirror. In the kitchen, under-cabinet lighting will illuminate the work surface evenly. Angus adds that most light fittings now are LED. “The colour temperature of the fittings is important, but you don’t necessarily want it to be the same in all rooms,” he says. “Kitchens tend to be cool white and living rooms warm white.” Factor in anywhere you might also use LED strips. “They can be useful as a way of hiding light sources, in particular around built-in furniture, in kitchens and around skylights,” Angus says.