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After. Roberts nicknamed the covered patio “George Jetson.” Her handy father winched it between the trees and slid it into its current location facing the house.See more of this houseMy Houzz is a series in which we visit and photograph creative, personality-filled homes and the people who inhabit them. Share your home with us and see more projects.More home tours: Apartments | Small Homes | Colorful Homes | Contemporary Homes | Eclectic Homes | Farmhouses | Midcentury Homes | Modern Homes | Ranch Homes | Traditional Homes | Transitional Homes | All
When building the deck in the backyard, Lavin wanted to incorporate a built-in pond. She showed her contractor an online tutorial and by the end of the next day he had integrated the basics of a built-in recirculating fountain into the deck. “I now get to listen to the sound of water flowing from my bedroom, since the doors open onto the deck and the pond is right there,” Lavin says.See more of this homeMy Houzz is a series in which we visit and photograph creative, personality-filled homes and the people who inhabit them. Share your home with us and see more projects.More home tours: Apartments | Small Homes | Colorful Homes | Contemporary Homes | Eclectic Homes | Farmhouses | Midcentury Homes | Modern Homes | Ranch Homes | Traditional Homes | Transitional Homes | All
1. Mowing annoying little patches of lawn. People in areas with cold winters may be off the hook (for now), but in many regions the joys of lawn care never cease. Have those little bits of grass — for instance, between steppingstones or in the driveway — replaced with artificial turf, and you can stop worrying about keeping them trimmed and watered. Artificial turf options are so real-looking now, your neighbors may not be able to tell the difference.
8. Minimalist magic. When homeowners Sally Ward Woodyard and Patrick Woodyard bought their newly built home in East Nashville, Tennessee, they described the space as a “big white triangle.” The couple’s decorating style is clean and minimal yet warm and inviting. “We are both drawn to items that tell stories, and I attribute that to both of our mothers,” Sally Ward Woodyard says. “Every piece in both of their homes seem to have a story. … I love that.” To create their own story, the living room includes a glass case full of collected Polaroids on the coffee table and an abstract painting they adore from artist JoAnne Oliver.
Larger Patio for Multiple UsesGoal: Create a patio big enough to have a spot for dining and a second use area, such as a lounge, outdoor grill or fire pitApproximate size: 25 by 30 feet (7.6 by 9.1 meters) or largerPatio details: Spacious bluestone terraceLocation: Tarrytown, New YorkDimensions: About 25 by 30 feet (7.6 by 9.1 meters)Material: Laser-cut bluestone paversCost: About $24 per square foot, including materials and installationLandscape designer Robert Welsch of Westover Landscape Design designed this backyard to include a spacious bluestone patio with room for a dining table for four and a small seating area for two or three people. Although the patio is on the large side at 750 square feet (69.7 square meters), it still feels intimate, thanks to the pleasant feeling of enclosure from the lattice fences and soft border plantings.
Julie McMahon and her husband, Greg Fontana, the owners of the Manhattan Beach home, say that their outdoor fire pit adds to the evening enjoyment of their backyard. “It’s wonderful to open up the French doors on a beautiful night and light the fire pit,” McMahon says. “It really draws us outside.”Read more about this landscape renovation
Patio details: Backyard gathering areaLocation: Manhattan Beach, CaliforniaDimensions: About 16 by 16 feet (4.9 by 4.9 meters)Material: Decomposed graniteCost: $35 to $50 per cubic yard for materialsIn this Southern California backyard, a patio that’s roughly 256 square feet (23.8 square meters) provides the floor for a smoke-free fire pit and a set of teak furniture.
Patio Around a Fire PitGoal: Design a lounge area for hosting a group around an outdoor fire pitApproximate size: 15 to 20 feet (4.6 to 6.1 meters) long and wide or larger Most fire pits, besides the small movable models, are 3 to 6 feet (0.9 meter to 1.8 meters) across. Whether you’re using outdoor furniture or a built-in seating arrangement, you’ll want to keep 2 to 2½ feet (0.6 to 0.8 meter) as a comfortable distance between the edge of the fire pit and the surrounding seats. If you leave room for chairs and 2½ feet (0.8 meter) of circulation behind the chairs, you need a patio that’s at least about 15 by 15 feet (4.6 by 4.6 meters) to accommodate a fire pit and chairs. Larger fire pit models will require more space.Browse fire pits and bowls
6. Style your courtyard. Early in the season, take advantage of the lingering warmth of summer and enjoy evenings outside. Here, a courtyard garden and an outdoor dining table have been made even more inviting with bright, colorful potted bedding mums. Covering the red wall behind, the leaves of Boston ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata, zones 4 to 10) will turn a deeper crimson for a curtain of color.
1. Showcase foliage. Adding at least one tree chosen for its fall foliage display can have a big impact in the garden. Here, the brilliant gold leaves of Chinese pistache (Pistacia chinensis, USDA zones 6 to 9; find your zone) glow in this neat and tidy front yard in Montgomery, Alabama. Chinese pistache trees reach about 25 feet tall at maturity, making them a perfect choice for a courtyard or small garden. The leaves change from gold to crimson, offering a spectacular display even in warm winter climates. If pollinated by a nearby male tree, a female tree can become covered in decorative clusters of berries, which cling to the branches even after the leaves have fallen. The berries are a bit messy, but they’re a valuable food source for wild birds.11 Trees for Brilliant Fall Color
Blanket Flower (Gaillardia aristata)Native in the northern Plains and Rockies into the Pacific Northwest, where it’s quickly vanishingBlanket flower reaches 1 foot to 2 feet in height and blooms all summer long. It is a truly low-maintenance plant for those in deer heaven. See how to grow blanket flower
American Century Plant (Agave americana)Native to the Southwest and TexasHere’s something a bit different for those living in the Southwest and Texas. This agave is xeric and massive, reaching more than 6 feet tall and wide, with impressive bloom spikes. Deer — and humans — tend to steer clear of the spiky leaves, so plant it in the right location. Soapweed (Yucca glauca) is a smaller plant with a similar look, reaching 3 to 4 feet tall in full sun and dry soil. Soapweed is native from Texas and New Mexico up to the Dakotas and Montana.See how to grow agave
LawnsWhile lawns are great in wet climates where rain keeps them going through the summer, they still need to be clipped, fertilized and kept free of pests. That takes equipment and manpower. You might consider leaving your landscape more natural.In the Los Angeles yard at left, mulch, stone and gravel beds combine in delightful variation, expressing the textures of the materials. The entrance walk is a flagstone path laid into sand. Drought-tolerant succulents and cactuses round out the theme, while a mature bougainvillea and trees have been closely trimmed to work with the new landscape.Below, a portion of this garden in Boston has been reserved for a mulch bed with shrubs and flowering plants, rather than giving it all over to a traditional lawn. Avoid planting lawns on hillsides that slope more than 10% as they can be problematic. You may be able to plant a hearty bed of ivy instead.
The Right Plants for Your LandscapeYour location will influence most of your decisions about what is suitable for your patch of land. Lush and green terrains like the one in the Washington, D.C., area, above, have different considerations than a dry or drought-prone landscape like the one in San Diego, below. But no matter where you live, some general rules of thumb apply.Avoid invasive plants. Beware of trees that spread aggressive roots or shrubs that will grow too large for the location in which you plant them.Avoid plants that require excessive shearing. Landscape maintenance ultimately requires the use of tools and services that consume energy to get the job done, whether that be workmen to drive to your location or equipment that burns fossil fuels.
Use native species. Most areas offer plenty of choices in native planting material. You will want to use them for most if not all of your landscape. They will probably do better than non-native plants.Use drought-tolerant plants. It’s especially important to use low-water plants in the Southwestern United States. But drought-tolerant plants can save water and reduce your utility bill no matter where you live.Find native plants for your region
2. Bottlebrush Buckeye (Aesculus parviflora)Native to the forests of the southeastern U.S., bottlebrush buckeye thrives in dappled shade and tolerates hot, humid conditions. Its white flower spikes grow up to 12 inches long and are held above the leaves like candelabras. The flowers give way to an attractive but inedible nut that resembles a chestnut (the seeds and foliage are poisonous to humans if eaten).Where it will grow: Hardy to minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit, or minus 29 degrees Celsius (zones 5 to 9)Light requirement: Dappled shade to full sunWater requirement: ModerateMature size: 12 to 15 feet tallSee how to grow bottlebrush buckeye
Maybe you are dealing with a sloped lot. Instead of bisecting the space with the typical brick or concrete steps, the designers at Stephen Stimson Associates employed steel risers that deliberately and profoundly extend into the garden. By contrasting naturalistic prairie-style plants with well-manicured turf, the designers added unexpected interest, creating a case study in texture, structure and color.
Perhaps you have a square, flat backyard with a nondescript fence. By thinking outside the box, the designer of this space created meaning by turning the seating area diagonally. The space now has a sense of journey with a defined destination that is reinforced by the horizontal timber screen. Running the lumber horizontally instead of vertically spread out the garden visually, making it seem larger. You might never notice that the fence enclosing the garden is chain link.Additionally, by turning the paved area on axis, the designer created planting pockets so that visitors have a meaningful interaction with the garden. The square pavers also create a sense of rhythm that captivates the mind.
Add some wind chimes. Historically I’ve hated wind chimes, because the small ones from the dollar stores have a pitch that seems abrasive to my ears. The larger, more expensive wind chimes currently on the market have forced me to change my mind.Chimes made by companies such as Corinthian Bells and Music of the Spheres have deeper, melodious tones that erase the stress of the day. Many of these can range up to 90 inches in length and have a wide range of resonance that resembles that of a pipe organ. Most are also tuned to specific keys and continue to vibrate long after they are struck. Be prepared to make an investment, as many of these chimes can run well over $500. I did, and I’ve never regretted it.
Texas. "Overseed your lawn with perennial rye for a green winter lawn. In our area it's not really perennial and will die off once the weather warms up in the spring," writes landscape designer Jenny Peterson."Winterize your lawn by spraying it weekly with a seaweed solution, and if you fertilize, be sure to use a lawn fertilizer that is high in phosphorus for healthy root growth. Look for nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium ratios like 8-6-12, 8-12-16 or 10-5-14 on a winter fertilizer package," she suggests.Get her Texas November checklist
Southwest. "Fire pits, outdoor fireplaces and heat lamps are obvious ways to keep warm in the winter, extending time enjoying outdoor living," writes New Mexico landscape designer David Cristiani."Another way to consider keeping warm in the months ahead is to use only deciduous trees near south- and west-facing walls, which will better absorb extra heat from the sun when cool, but filter the sun from the same surfaces during warmer months," Cristiani says. "Also consider places on your property where you wish to dine and at what time of day — blocking chilly winds and absorbing sun are paramount to winter al fresco dining."Get his Southwest November checklist
What would make things easier? What were the annoyances you encountered again and again during the past year? Did you hate having to wander out behind the garage every time you wanted to pick something to eat? Was it impossible to transplant potted plants into larger containers? To make it easier to harvest edibles, see if there’s a good growing space near the kitchen or barbecue (don’t overlook a front or side yard). Or maybe convert low-growing edible beds to raised beds.
Are there new places to garden? Maybe your garden’s floor was great but the walls were blank. Can you add vertical interest, whether it’s on a wall, as part of a living screen or with quick-growing vines?
What about your shrubs and trees? Are they still doing well, or do you need to replace some? Is it time to add the shade or fruit tree you want? Maybe you want a beautiful accent shrub by your front door or patio.
Garden styles and systems can never be set in stone, and this includes the use of perennial plants. Future garden designers may choose to go back to the formal layout of the traditional herbaceous border and cast aside the more flowing lines of the perennial meadow. We may even see these styles combined, as with the long perennial border in the contemporary garden seen here.More: Relish the Romance of a Slovenian Garden
Though not natural, as prairie planting also isn’t natural in the true sense, perennial-meadow-style planting can also have environmental benefits.A mixture of grasses and flowering perennials provides habitat and food for a wide range of insects and birds, while having a low environmental impact. Any cutting back of flowering stems should not be carried out until the spring, to allow birds to enjoy the resulting seed heads while they use the dried foliage for nest building.Learn more about this planting combination
Planting a perennial meadow requires the same skill in plant placement as other forms of planting do, including the techniques of grouping and repetition.The black-eyed Susans and pink sedums in this long border are planted in groups and repeated, creating a visual link along the border. The planting is tight to form a low-maintenance ground cover that gives the impression of a living tapestry of color and texture. Because more modern compact varieties of perennials and tight plantings were used, there is little need for time-consuming tying, staking and weeding of plants in season.
Monitor your garden’s moisture level. If summer rains are providing enough water to keep your plants happy, turn off an automated system or forgo a scheduled watering session. An old-fashioned rain gauge is one way to keep track of weekly rainfall.
The perennial border popularized in Victorian gardens was labor intensive and very seasonal, requiring a great amount of horticultural skill to create a stunning kaleidoscope of summer color. Garden designer Gertrude Jekyll included intricate, colorful borders in many of her Arts and Crafts–style gardens. Maintaining these borders required splitting the perennial plants and replanting every three to four years to maintain their vigor, staking and tying to keep plants in order, and deadheading and weeding throughout the season to keep the border tidy. The design of the perennial meadow has changed the way we interact with the plantings. Whereas the herbaceous border was created as a focal point, or a feature to be viewed, rather like a painting, the perennial meadow takes its form from the prairie style, where we are surrounded by the plantings or are led through them by pathways. The perennial meadow gives us the opportunity to use a wide range of plants and grasses to create a stylized version of a traditional meadow that perhaps has nostalgic resonance with our past.
Plant just what you need, and group edibles with similar watering needs together. This applies especially if you want only a few plants, not an entire market garden. Create a separate herb garden, and consider planting beans, corn and squash together. (The beans use the stalks for support, and the squash leaves keep insects at bay.) Or keep shallow-rooted plants, like lettuces and spinach, in the same garden bed.
Beyond the BasicsAdd watering basins. Other options will also help you water efficiently and effectively. By filling watering basins around plants, especially fruit trees, you let the water slowly permeate the soil and reach the deepest roots without having to stand there holding a hose. Above-ground bags that fit around trees are becoming more common and allow you to do the same thing, especially for newly planted trees. Consider covering larger watering basins with decorative rock, like the ones surrounding these trees. The stones allow water to permeate the soil while protecting the trees from lawnmower blades and adding a finishing touch to the landscape. Create garden furrows. The traditional furrow alongside a row of vegetables serves the same purpose as a watering basin, allowing water to slowly reach the roots. Keep the furrow level so the water doesn’t pool at one end.For both watering basins and furrows, be sure the water doesn’t sit directly against the stem of the plant or trunk of the tree. Leave a small dirt barrier between the two.
Know your soil type. The ideal garden soil is a rich, easy-to-work loam that is porous enough for water to easily (but slowly) seep down, yet heavy enough to keep the water at the root level. If you’re lucky to have this soil, rejoice. The rest of us are jealous.Sandy soil is just what it sounds like — very loose and porous. The good news is that sandy soil absorbs water easily. The bad news is that it also allows the water to quickly pass by the roots and drain away. If you have sandy soil, you’ll want to amend it. You’ll probably need to water more often to be sure the soil near the roots stays wet. With heavy clay soil, you’ll water less often but you’ll need to make other adjustments. Because clay soil absorbs water very slowly, it’s easy for the water to run off before it penetrates the ground. The solution is to keep the flow low, almost a trickle if the soil is very dense. Also, try watering in two blocks — water for 5 to 10 minutes, turn it off for 20 minutes, then water again for 5 to 10 minutes. This allows the soil time to absorb the water.
Know your plants’ water needs. As a rule, most edibles need regular watering and aren’t happy if the soil dries out too much in between. But that’s not true of all of them, so you may want to put some plants, such as herbs and even tomatoes, on a separate schedule in which you water less. At the same time, other plants, such as cole crops, might need extra watering sessions.
Water less often but deeply. The water needs to reach the deepest roots, which can be as shallow as 6 inches for radishes, around 1 foot for most vegetables, up to 2 feet for deeper-rooted plants like tomatoes and even deeper for fruit trees. The general guideline is to water about 1 inch a week, but it can vary depending your plants, climate conditions (dry and windy versus still and humid) and soil type. Insert a thin rod or screwdriver into the soil next to the plants (be careful around the roots) an hour after watering to determine how deep the water has reached.
Water slowly. Spraying a full blast on a garden is more likely to wash away the dirt than provide the plants with enough water. Take it easy, and let the water fall gently on the soil and plants. Water consistently. Plants do best when they’re on a regular schedule rather than a seesaw approach of overwatering followed by droughtlike conditions.
Water in the morning. Try to give plants a drink at the beginning of the day. Consider it your garden’s morning caffeine jolt. Being hydrated helps plants combat the heat of the day. It also gives the foliage time to dry in the sun, which helps prevent diseases. If a morning watering session doesn’t fit your schedule, your next best choice is the evening, especially once things have begun to cool down. Be sure not to get foliage too wet, especially if your edibles are prone to fungus. At mid-day, water only the plants that are wilting significantly.
How to Plan AheadIn addition to implementing proper pruning practices, researching your existing shrubs or any new ones you plan to buy is key to avoiding excessively pruned flowering shrubs. Learn how large they will become and be sure you allot enough room for them. Secondly, learn what they should look like when maintained properly.If you prefer a more formal garden stye, you might consider using shrubs with a more compact growth habit or that are prized for their foliage and take well to repeated shearing, such as boxwood (Buxus spp) and myrtle (Myrtus spp). Large flowering shrubs can be used as a backdrop for a more formal landscape.Shown: Green Cloud Texas ranger on the left, whose flowers were just pruned off, transforming it into a round green ball as opposed to the beautiful, purple flowering shrub it used to look like on the right. Unfortunately, the one on the right was next in line for the landscaper’s hedge trimmers.
Armed with the knowledge of how to correctly prune flowering shrubs, you’ll have a landscape that’s filled with beautiful flowering shrubs and no green balls in sight. Shown: Valentine bush properly maintained by pruning once a year after flowering has finished in late springMore: See what else you can do in your spring garden
River birch. This fast-growing and graceful tree can reach up to 90 feet tall and 60 feet wide, taller than its better-known white birch cousins. Along with yellow fall foliage, it'll reward you with interesting bark, and there is even a weeping variety. River birch (Betula nigra) grows in zones 4 through 9 and prefers full sun and regular water.
Ginkgo. Most people these days know the supplement, but the maidenhair tree (Ginkgo biloba) is a longtime landscape favorite. It's versatile: tall enough, at up to 50 feet in height, to serve as a street tree but equally good as a patio tree. Even better, it's very long lived and relatively drought tolerant, has almost no pests or problems, and can handle pollution and other environmental issues. Most of all, it's a beautiful tree with lovely fan-shaped leaves that turn bright yellow-gold in fall. Ginkgo grows well in zones 3 through 8 in both full sun and partial shade. It needs well-drained soil and regular water until it's established.
Here are 11 popular trees that are known for their fall color to get you started. They grow in a fairly wide range of climate zones. Some stay fairly small, but some need a lot of room in which to spread out. Local nursery personnel can steer you in the right direction for trees that will thrive in your climate zone, and they can also provide additional planting and growing information for your local conditions. Also check with them for the right planting time; fall may be ideal in warmer climates, but if the soil is starting to freeze already, you may want to wait until spring.
Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium)Native to every state in the U.S. except California, Oregon and ArizonaGrasses flower too, and mixing grasses with perennial flowers provides good habitat for wildlife and creates healthier gardens that require less maintenance. Little bluestem starts sporting its glittery seeds in August, which can last through most of the winter. It’s drought-tolerant and reaches 3 to 4 feet tall and 2 feet wide.See how to grow little bluestemTell us: What are some of your favorite and dependable native flowers that bloom well in August? Upload photos to the Comments.MoreWhat to do in your garden this monthBrowse plants native to other regions of the U.S.
With all the ingredients in place, you’ll have created a garden that, in many ways, mimics how nature layers itself. The ground cover shades the soil, conserving soil moisture and competing well against weeds. The ornamental layer lifts blooms up to the sun and pollinators while creating a middle level of architectural and season interest. The taller, thicker specimens, which might include shrubs or trees, provide yet another layer of wildlife habitat while adding visual interest and weight. The world beyond our homes has much to teach us about how nature works and what wildlife needs to thrive. If we can begin to emulate the complexity of nature, and allow a bit more wildness in our landscapes, we’ll find both wildlife and ourselves happier and healthier. MoreThe Surprising Ingredients Every Good Garden Should HaveHow to Find the Right Native Plants for Your YardFind garden guides for every region of the U.S.Find a landscape architect or designer near you
Architectural specimens. A shrub or clump of shrubs planted in the middle or off to the side could benefit your layered garden. Consider architectural shrubs like redtwig dogwood (Cornus sericea), southern arrowwood (Viburnum dentatum), chokeberry (Aronia spp.) or ninebark (Physocarpus spp.). Depending on the size of your garden, you could also incorporate trees into your layered design. Small trees like ‘Canada Red’ chokecherry (Prunus virginiana ‘Canada Red’), serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.), crabapple (Malus spp.) or redbud (Cercis spp.) would suit this design — or maybe a weeping evergreen. You might even want towering perennials, such as tall tickseed (Coreopsis tripteris), ironweed (Vernonia fasciculata), Joe Pye weed (Eutrochium purpureum) or American senna (Senna hebecarpa) — all of which enliven the garden design with their blooms and structure. The sky really is the limit when it comes to your plant selection — it all depends on your site’s conditions and your preferred garden style.
A note on competition. Some plants — such as swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata) and little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) — are slow movers or just prefer to remain in clumps. Others — like bee balm (Monarda spp.) and upright prairie coneflower (Ratibida columnifera) — like to move, either by root runners or self-sowing. It’s important to plant like next to like in order to have a garden bed that doesn’t go crazy on you. Plant aggressive plants with aggressive plants; let them duke it out and keep each other in check. Let clumping plants and native bunch grasses cozy up to one another and enjoy their mutual separation. This will help the intended design stay intact longer while easing your maintenance load.
3. Follow the day into night, and note how the garden’s double life contributes to its success. Birds come back in a flourish just before sunset. The afternoon heat has subsided, and they are landing in the fountain or birdbath with desperate joy. Maybe you find a toad sheltering in the cool ivory sedge, or, if you’re patient enough, watch a hummingbird at work on a penstemon. As the wavelengths of light coming from the sun change, some flowers will be on notice to close their petals. This is when you should find a secluded corner and follow the day down into night. Let the slow darkness enshroud you and the garden. Breathe in the deep, moist musk of soil and decaying leaves. Reach out and feel the smooth leaves of baptisia until you find the Braille-like bumps of sulfur butterfly eggs ready to hatch. Watch where the fireflies pulse and hover — how they interact with open areas compared with plant beds. Listen for owls gathering in a nearby tree. Are there places where wildlife need more cover? Could you add a shrub hedgerow or a small tree? Do you need to turn off the landscape lights so that moths can find night flowers?You helped this space come alive, just as it’s helped you co...
2. Notice and record wildlife, and how they’re using the landscape. Take every opportunity to get outside — the plants and the wildlife change every moment, and there are always new displays to find. After a morning walk, take a post-lunch stroll, if just to get some fresh air and exercise those computer-weary eyes. Yes, the sun is much warmer now, but that means the mountain mint is covered in dozens of insect species. Go ahead and reach into the minty clump of white blooms — just be deliberate and confident. I’m a firm believer that all other life senses how we feel. Note what pollinators are visiting what blooms over the course of the day, and realize that this can guide you to provide even more of what they need. Small butterflies like red admirals will sun themselves on the fence with the last evening light, while larger species like swallowtails will swoop in midday looking for Joe Pye weed and blazing star. Are moths roosting in the shade of the big leaves of prairie dock or wild quinine? What flower seeds are birds eating? Which grasses do birds come to gather for nesting? What more should you add this fall or next spring?
“We like to use plants with at least two seasons, but many times three or four seasons, of interest,” Patek says. “Taking a four-season approach [often] gives you the benefit of both interesting textures and colors year-round.” A close-up of a waterside planting bed shows the contrast in color, form and texture between fine-leafed gray-green juniper, a mounding dwarf pine, bold, spiky-looking yucca, red barberry and weeping foliage of a yellow ‘Tiger Eyes’ staghorn sumac.
13. Add shade to the yard. Make your backyard more comfortable with an umbrella or shade sail. With ample shady spots to sit, you’ll likely find yourself wanting to spend more time in your outdoor space — and shade is a must for summer backyard parties.Seek Shelter in the Shade This Summer | Find outdoor umbrellas
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